By the time we reached Pondicherry on the coast of south-east India, we were all ‘citied out’ and ready for a few days of rest, relaxation and fresh sea air. ‘Pondy’, as it is commonly known, delivered in spades. We had booked heritage accommodation – a 150-year old townhouse converted into a ten-bedroom hotel. Undoubtedly, it had seen better days, but we were immediately charmed by its faded glamour, colourful stained glass windows and dark, solid furniture. The fact that we had a terrace, complete with table and chairs perfect for sitting writing, just outside our room, was a bonus.
Pondicherry was under French rule until 1954 and the Gallic influence is still very much in evidence. The French street names displayed on familiar royal blue plaques immediately evoke memories of provincial French towns. When you reach the seafront with its wide promenade, palm trees and fancy street lighting, you find yourself transported to the south of France! Then you see ladies in colourful saris and the ubiquitous yellow auto-rickshaws and you remember where you really are!
Pondicherry was renamed Puducherry a few years ago by the Tamil Nadu government, but nobody refers to it by that name. It’s Pondy … and we loved it!!
We spent our days there wandering the streets, stopping every now and then for a cafe frappe or an espresso. Pondy is a Union Territory, so Tamil Nadu’s alcohol laws and exorbitant taxes don’t apply. Getting a beer, therefore, was easier than anywhere else we’d been in India up to this point. We were also spoilt for choice when it came to eating. We did still have Indian food, but also opted for French fare on a couple of occasions – most memorably, delicious savoury crepes and green salad in the bohemian Cafe des Arts.
Whilst much of the architecture in Pondy is decidedly French, especially the town houses and the churches, the colour is all Indian. We loved seeing the buildings painted in bright canary yellow, vibrant fuschia pink or tropical turquoise.
We also enjoyed venturing into the Tamil part of town where life seemed a little more chaotic and noisy! We were fortunate to be in Pondy on a Sunday when several streets are given over to a hectic and colourful market. The whole town seemed to be out, relishing the atmosphere and buying the fake goods and cheap tat. The boys on bicycles ringing their bells and selling gaudy pink candyfloss were doing a roaring trade!
The more mundane, but equally colourful daily market (again in the Tamil area) was also worth a visit, especially the part dedicated to selling the day’s catch. The quantity and variety of fish on display was amazing.
We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Pondy and it was with some regret that we left to continue our journey around southern India.
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